The coffee was super crappy this morning, which meant we would have to wait for 12 km, all uphill until we could get our hands on some descent Joe and hopefully something edible. We were however grateful for the sunshine, bringing us some surreal views. Our app recommended taking the road rather than the trail set out for pilgrims. Perhaps we were sharing the road with cars and bikes, but we didn’t have to climb down and back up and up again for more of an incline, unlike the other pilgrims.
Based on the views alone, Galicia appears to be gorgeous province. When we ‘thought’ we reached the top of the mountain in O Cebreiro, we were welcomed by new architecture, Pallozas and more uphill trails. The round stone houses with straw roofs in O Cebreiro that were inhabited until recently. The ethnological museum located inside one of the houses was open, and was not only cool to check out, but also free. This town is home to the oldest intact Roman built churches on the Camino. We finally were able to get some decent coffee there and homemade quince, essentially hardened jelly (first time eating it). Delicious but extremely sugary. Figured we would eat an actual meal at some point down the road. Like I said, I thought we had finally reached the top but to our surprise we still had a ways to go... Up. Ugh.
Our albergue, A Reboleira in Fonfria, was actually at the top of the mountain and was beautiful. For €10 you got a dormitory style bed, and for €10 more you got dinner in no other than a Palloza! The albergue had a cafe, and an adorable reading room with a computer. The owner knew his music and was playing great jams all night. We were able to nibble on some nuts before dinner, in case the dinner was sub par. Luckily, it was delicioso. Although we had ran into Jim outside earlier, everyone here was new to us. It was great to make some new friends on the pilgrimage. Now, if only to stay warm for the remainder of the night (currently 30 F), brrrr.