Day 30: Sarria to Portomarin aka Well, I'll be dammed
We decided to decline the €10 a person breakfast buffet that the hotel had to offer. Instead we opted for coffee and gluten-free stale muffins for 2 euros each at nearby bar. This AM was cold, and as we were leaving Sarria, I kept thinking to myself that I am sure this city has more to offer, and that we weren´t in a good mindset yesterday to enjoy it.
Today´s trail started with a steep hill... yippee. And there were just as many hills as there were new pilgrims.. A LOT. For six miles, we did not see any water fountains or bars to stop in. At the 100k mark, there was an albergue with a juicer... Yes, an actual juicer. First one I have seen in Spain. The juice was great, and the views prior to after this stop were phenomenal. No less, when we walked into Portomarin. This is the newest oldest town on the camino. In the 60´s the Mino River was dammed to create the Belesar reservoir, entirely drowning the old village. Most of the historic buildings, including the castle-like church were moved brick by brick to be reconstructed in the new town. Since the dam was at a low level today, you could see the remains of the ancient buildings. So beautiful.
Feeling tired and hungry, we went straight to our hotel, Hotel Ferramentiero, where for €80, we literally only received a view and two crammed beds. We were happy for the washer/dryer option for €10, since I had bloody socks to wash (No dolor no hay camino, right?). After throwing on sandals, we went next door right away to eat at a "Hollywood"-styled restaurant called O Mirador, that was miraculously open. The food was good, as in edible, as in better than yesterday´s cardboard. Plus, it was our first real meal since breakfast yesterday, costing us 9 euros each.
After eating, we went into town to take a look at the church, and stop by the grocery store for snacks. There we ran into Mitchell from Australia, and other camino friends, and discussed our soon-to-be bittersweet ending. I am ecstatic that it is warm enough to be journaling outside, whilst enjoying a mug of hot cocoa. The sun is setting over the river, and the moon is waxing to its full capacity… This must be the life.