Under the famous penis umbrellas of Caldas da Rainha.

My mom knew I would move here before I did.

As my husband, then a very new friend, showed us around the park built by the queen for residents to rest after bathing in the thermal waters, my mom said, “I could see you painting here.” A sweet omen.

Not long after, that future became my present

Caldas da Rainha sits on Portugal’s Silver Coast, between Lisbon and Coimbra. It is a working town shaped by ceramics, thermal waters, and its famous daily fresh market, where farmers, fishers, and local producers come in every morning with what they’ve just harvested or caught. It is loud, practical, and completely alive.

It is also an art university town, home to ESAD.CR, and that presence shows up everywhere. Ceramics studios, experimental cafés, vintage shops, and small creative spaces are part of everyday life here.

I love how walkable it is. And within a short drive you find beaches, lagoons, surf towns, medieval villages, salt flats, caves, and wellness cafés along the coast.

Here are some of my favorite places in and around the Queen’s Hot Waters…

BREAKFAST / COFFEE

Origem Coffee (Caldas)

Specialty coffee and simple breakfast/lunch in the center of town. Offers gluten-free options.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/origem.coffee/

The Coffee (Óbidos)

My fav new coffee shop… Inspired by Japanese coffee culture, The Coffee brings a minimalist café experience to the heart of Óbidos. The menu features high-quality specialty coffee, matcha, chai, seasonal drinks, and Japanese-inspired beverages in a beautifully designed space. It's an ideal stop for coffee lovers looking for something beyond the traditional Portuguese café. As of now, no gluten-free options, but hopefully soon.

Website: https://thecoffee.jp/shortcut/portugal/obidos/the-coffee-obidos

Aloha Brunch (Nazaré)

More casual, beach-adjacent brunch café.

🔗 https://www.atly.com/gluten-free/location/AlohaBrunchNazare

Sol Café (Peniche)

Cute cafe for before surf or coastal walks.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/solcafepeniche/

Avocado Café (Óbidos)

Gluten-free friendly brunch inside the medieval walls.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/avocadocoffeehealthyfood/

LUNCH

Kali Café (Peniche)

Health-conscious coastal café with gluten-free options, and a bio/ organic store inside.

https://www.instagram.com/kalicafepeniche/

Local Cafe

All-day café: breakfast, lunch, dinner, natural wines, and a strong community feel.

https://www.facebook.com/local.cafe.caldas/

Merkabah (Caldas da Rainha)

A fully vegan restaurant serving fresh, seasonal dishes with plenty of naturally gluten-free options. The menu changes regularly and focuses on whole food ingredients, making it one of the best choices in Caldas for a healthy, plant-forward meal. Be sure to let the staff know if you have celiac disease or require strict gluten-free preparation.

https://merkabah1320.com

Be You Organic Café (Ericeira)

Organic café + shop with seasonal lunches and gluten-free options.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/beyou.ericeira/

ALVA Bakery (Ericeira) — 100% Gluten Free

Dedicated gluten-free bakery with breakfast and lunch menu.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/alvabakeryericeira/

Rir Sol Bio (Alcobaça)

A small organic café and health food shop serving vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic, and gluten-free meals. The menu changes daily and features fresh, seasonal ingredients alongside organic groceries, teas, kombucha, and natural products. If you're spending the day in Alcobaça, it's an excellent place for a nourishing lunch or to stock up on healthy essentials.

https://www.happycow.net/reviews/rir-sol-bio-alcobaca-383732

GiG – Green is Good (Ericeira)

If you're taking a day trip to Ericeira, GiG is worth the stop. This bright, health-focused café serves smoothie bowls, salads, fresh juices, brunch, and several gluten-free options in a relaxed atmosphere. It has become one of the area's most popular destinations for healthy eating.

https://www.findmeglutenfree.com/biz/gig/5052899312402432

MIM House & Friends (Torres Vedras)

A cozy restaurant offering several gluten-free choices alongside beautifully prepared seasonal dishes, specialty coffee, and homemade desserts. It's a wonderful stop if you're exploring the area and looking for fresh, locally inspired food in a relaxed setting. As always, let the staff know if you require strict gluten-free preparation.

https://www.findmeglutenfree.com/biz/mim-houseandfriends/5050782547574784

Restaurante Refúgio do Maneta (Santa Cruz / Silveira)

A traditional Portuguese restaurant that has earned positive reviews from the gluten-free community for accommodating diners with celiac disease. While it is not a dedicated gluten-free kitchen, the staff are familiar with dietary restrictions and can often recommend naturally gluten free seafood and meat dishes naturally, making it a great option for experiencing authentic Portuguese cuisine.

https://www.findmeglutenfree.com/biz/restaurante-refugio-do-maneta/4747339152097280

Café Vesta (Caldas da Rainha)

A cozy specialty coffee café that's become a local favorite for breakfast and brunch. Along with excellent coffee and fresh, seasonal ingredients, Café Vesta now offers gluten-free bagels, making it one of the few cafés in the area where you can enjoy a gluten-free breakfast or lunch sandwich. The menu also includes wholesome brunch options in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.

https://www.facebook.com/cafevesta.pt/

DINNER

PALCO (inside CCC – Caldas da Rainha)

Cultural café and restaurant inside the contemporary arts center.

🔗 https://www.ccc.com.pt/espacos-comerciais/cafe-concerto/

Flavors of India

Family-run Indian restaurant in the center of Caldas da Rainha known for authentic home-style cooking and a rotating daily menu. Strong reputation locally for careful attention to dietary needs. Reservations required.

🔗 https://www.facebook.com/f lavoursofindiacaldas/
🔗 https://restaurantguru.com/Flavours-of-India-Caldas-da-Rainha

Solar dos Amigos (near Caldas)

Traditional Portuguese restaurant just outside town.

🔗 https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g663836-d2556056-Reviews-Solar_Dos_Amigos-Caldas_Da_Rainha_Leiria_District_Central_Portugal.html

BAKERIES + DESSERTS in Caldas

Aroma Café

Known for gluten-free waffles and sweet baked items.

🔗 https://www.facebook.com/aromacafecaldas/

B de Bolos

Creative bakery with gluten-free and vegan friendly options.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/b.de.bolos/

Puzzle Gelataria

Ice cream near Parque D. Carlos I. Vegan options available. Cash only.

🔗 https://www.facebook.com/puzzle.gelataria/

THINGS TO DO in Caldas

Parque D. Carlos I

Historic park with lake, boat rentals, and walking paths.

🔗 https://www.cm-caldas-rainha.pt/

Hospital Termal de Caldas da Rainha

One of the oldest thermal hospitals in the world and the origin of the town.

🔗 https://www.choeste.min-saude.pt/hospital-termal/

Praça da Fruta

Daily farmers market. Saturday is the busiest day.

🔗 https://www.cm-caldas-rainha.pt/

Estamine (Caldas da Rainha)

A hybrid creative space: shop + event space + cultural programming. One of the newer independent creative anchors in town.

🔗 https://www.instagram.com/estamine_/

Viveka Yoga (Caldas da Rainha)

If you're looking to balance sightseeing with self-care, Viveka Yoga offers a welcoming space for movement, mindfulness, and community. With classes for a variety of experience levels, it's a wonderful addition to a wellness-focused itinerary and a chance to slow down while visiting the Silver Coast. Viveka Yoga

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vivekayogastudio/

Website: https://vivekayoga.pt