A Gluten-Free and Health-Conscious Travel Guide to Caldas da Rainha, Portugal and The Silver Coast (Nazare, Peniche, Obidos, and More)
My mom knew I would move here before I did.
As my husband, then a very new friend, showed us around the park built by the queen for residents to rest after bathing in the thermal waters, my mom said, “I could see you painting here.” A sweet omen.
Not long after, that future became my present
Caldas da Rainha sits on Portugal’s Silver Coast, between Lisbon and Coimbra. It is a working town shaped by ceramics, thermal waters, and its famous daily fresh market, where farmers, fishers, and local producers come in every morning with what they’ve just harvested or caught. It is loud, practical, and completely alive.
It is also an art university town, home to ESAD.CR, and that presence shows up everywhere. Ceramics studios, experimental cafés, vintage shops, and small creative spaces are part of everyday life here.
I love how walkable it is. And within a short drive you find beaches, lagoons, surf towns, medieval villages, salt flats, caves, and wellness cafés along the coast.
Here are some of my favorite places in and around the Queen’s Hot Waters…
BREAKFAST / COFFEE
Origem Coffee (Caldas)
Specialty coffee and simple breakfast/lunch in the center of town. Offers gluten-free options.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/origem.coffee/
Aloha Brunch (Nazaré)
More casual, beach-adjacent brunch café.
🔗 https://www.atly.com/gluten-free/location/AlohaBrunchNazare
Sol Café (Peniche)
Cute cafe for before surf or coastal walks.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/solcafepeniche/
Avocado Café (Óbidos)
Gluten-free friendly brunch inside the medieval walls.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/avocadocoffeehealthyfood/
LUNCH
Kali Café (Peniche)
Health-conscious coastal café with gluten-free options, and a bio/ organic store inside.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/kalicafepeniche/
Local Cafe
All-day café: breakfast, lunch, dinner, natural wines, and a strong community feel.
🔗 https://www.facebook.com/local.cafe.caldas/
Be You Organic Café (Ericeira)
Organic café + shop with seasonal lunches and gluten-free options.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/beyou.ericeira/
ALVA Bakery (Ericeira) — 100% Gluten Free
Dedicated gluten-free bakery with breakfast and lunch menu.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/alvabakeryericeira/
DINNER
PALCO (inside CCC – Caldas da Rainha)
Cultural café and restaurant inside the contemporary arts center.
🔗 https://www.ccc.com.pt/espacos-comerciais/cafe-concerto/
Flavors of India
Family-run Indian restaurant in the center of Caldas da Rainha known for authentic home-style cooking and rotating daily menu. Strong reputation locally for careful attention to dietary needs. Reservations required.
🔗 https://www.facebook.com/flavoursofindiacaldas/
🔗 https://restaurantguru.com/Flavours-of-India-Caldas-da-Rainha
Solar dos Amigos (near Caldas)
Traditional Portuguese restaurant just outside town.
🔗 https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g663836-d2556056-Reviews-Solar_Dos_Amigos-Caldas_Da_Rainha_Leiria_District_Central_Portugal.html
BAKERIES + DESSERTS in Caldas
Aroma Café
Known for gluten-free waffles and sweet baked items.
🔗 https://www.facebook.com/aromacafecaldas/
B de Bolos
Creative bakery with gluten-free and vegan friendly options.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/b.de.bolos/
Puzzle Gelataria
Ice cream near Parque D. Carlos I. Vegan options available. Cash only.
🔗 https://www.facebook.com/puzzle.gelataria/
THINGS TO DO in Caldas
Parque D. Carlos I
Historic park with lake, boat rentals, and walking paths.
🔗 https://www.cm-caldas-rainha.pt/
Hospital Termal de Caldas da Rainha
One of the oldest thermal hospitals in the world and the origin of the town.
🔗 https://www.choeste.min-saude.pt/hospital-termal/
Praça da Fruta
Daily farmers market. Saturday is the busiest day.
🔗 https://www.cm-caldas-rainha.pt/
Estamine (Caldas da Rainha)
A hybrid creative space: shop + event space + cultural programming. One of the newer independent creative anchors in town.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/estamine_/
CERAMICS (Caldas)
Bordallo Pinheiro Factory Store
Iconic Portuguese ceramics brand.
🔗 https://www.bordallopinheiro.com/
Gata Gata Ceramics
Contemporary ceramics studio.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/gatagata.ceramica/
Secla (historic reference)
Regional ceramics heritage brand.
Casa Alegre
Traditional Portuguese tableware ceramics.
🔗 https://www.alegre.pt/
SHOPPING + HEALTH STORES in Caldas
Casa Zen
Spiritual shop + vintage clothing + books + objects.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/casazen.caldas/
Sara Equilibra
Organic beauty, wellness products, home goods, and natural living items.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/sara.equilibra/
Green Bazaar
Vintage and secondhand clothing store.
🔗 https://www.instagram.com/greenbazaar.cr/
Biológicos da Rainha
Main organic grocery store in Caldas.
🔗 https://www.facebook.com/biologicosrainha/
BEACHES + NATURE
Foz do Arelho
Where the Atlantic meets the Óbidos Lagoon.
🔗 https://www.cm-caldas-rainha.pt/
Lagoa de Óbidos
Lagoon system for walking, kayaking, paddleboarding, and sunset.
🔗 https://www.visitportugal.com/
São Martinho do Porto
Sheltered bay beach with calm swimming water.
🔗 https://www.visitportugal.com/
Peniche Beaches
Surf coastline and dramatic cliffs. We love
🔗 https://www.visitportugal.com/
DAY TRIPS
Óbidos
Medieval walled town. Castle life.
🔗 https://www.visitportugal.com/
Nazaré
Cliffs, fishing village, home of the world’s most giant waves, and ocean viewpoints.
🔗 https://www.visitportugal.com/
Salinas de Rio Maior
Inland salt flats still in operation. This is where we get our table salt from because it’s just soooo good.
🔗 https://www.salinasdoriomaior.pt/
Mira de Aire Caves
One of Portugal’s largest cave systems.
🔗 https://www.grutasmiradaire.com/
Fátima
Major pilgrimage site for the virgin mary.
Ericeira
Surf + wellness town:
🔗 https://www.visitportugal.com/